For centuries, the beauty ideal has been for long, lustrous eyelashes. In recent years, eyelash formulas and serums have surged in popularity as a natural way to achieve not just long but also full and healthy eyelashes.
These products enhance and plump the eyelashes with safe and natural ingredients so they can do what nature intended: grow. Understanding the science behind not just eyelash growth but also the ingredients that make lash serums work can help consumers make informed choices about using them.
The Eyelash Growth Cycle
Understanding the function of lash formulas requires an understanding of the eyelash growth cycle. The cycle has three phases, just as the hair on our heads does:
Anagen (Growth Phase)
The active growth phase lasts around 30 to 45 days. At this stage, the hair follicle is embedded in the skin and keeps right on growing. It’s estimated that at any one time about 40% of the upper eyelashes and 15% of the lower eyelashes are in this phase.
Catagen (Transition Phase)
This intermediate phase lasts about two to three weeks. During this time, lash growth slows considerably, and the follicle begins to shrink. If the lash falls out at this time, it won’t immediately be replaced.
Telogen (Resting Phase)
The final phase lasts about 100 days. The hair is completely grown and stays in place until, naturally and at its own pace, it falls out. At that point, the hair follicle is a few days away from going into anagen, or growth phase.
Because each eyelash is at a different stage of the cycle, eyelashes naturally shed and regrow continuously. The main aim of lash products is to extend the anagen phase and improve the lashes’ overall health.
Key Ingredients in Eyelash Products
Usually, lash serum is made with a combination of active elements that work to make lashes grow, to keep the hair follicles strong, and to stop the shedding of hairs that usually occurs in the lash growth cycle. Some of the most commonly used and effective ingredients are:
Analogues of Prostaglandins
Initially formulated for the treatment of glaucoma, these compounds were serendipitously found to promote eyelash growth as a side effect. They prolong the anagen (growth) phase of the lash, which results in longer, darker, and thicker lashes.
Peptides
These are short chains of amino acids. They support the production of keratin, the principal protein in hair and, by extension, the principal protein in lashes. Peptides fortify the structures of lashes and promote their health.
Vitamin B7 (Biotin)
Often included in lash formulas to support keratin infrastructure, Biotin’s direct impact on eyelash growth is still debated. However, it can help improve the overall condition of lashes, reducing brittleness.
Provitamin B5 (Panthenol)
This ingredient works to condition and hydrate the lashes, reducing the chance that they’ll become dry and brittle.
Hyaluronic Acid
Recognized for its moisture-retaining attributes, hyaluronic acid maintains the hydration and flexibility of lashes; this, in turn, diminishes the odds of them shedding before their time.
Plant Extracts and Oils
Natural ingredients such as green tea extract, castor oil, and aloe vera are staples of the cosmetic industry. These ingredients offer you the benefits of antioxidants, which mean they help to nourish your follicles and protect your lashes from environmental damage.
How Lash Serums Work
These key ingredients are delivered to the hair follicles by means of lash serums, which work to stimulate growth and improve lash health. When the serum is applied along the lash line, it penetrates the follicle and affects the stage of growth the lash is in, prolonging the anagen phase and ensuring more lashes are in the active growth stage for an extended period of time.
The Right Lash Serum Can be a Game Changer for Your Appearance
Eyelash-enhancing serums take advantage of an amalgam of scientifically validated agents to trigger growth, as measured by increase in total lash length, thickness, and a perceived boost in lash density. Some of the ingredients in these serums work by increasing the lifespan of the lash, while others may be nourishing the follicles.
But not all active ingredients in every lash formula are the same, and their safety and efficacy must be gauged against the kind of results users hope to achieve.
